Planning
Planning and then getting to the next two base camps for our Project Base8000 was always going to be a challenge. Firstly, Cho Oyu Base Camp is located in Tibet, on the border with Nepal. Next, finding an appropriate mountaineering expedition to tag along and trek with. Then, obtaining the appropriate visa and permit which in our case meant travelling via Nepal and Kathmandu. Fly or drive? We decided the simplest and easiest way to get into Tibet was fly direct from Kathmandu to Lhasa. Then, drive back across the border direct to Kathmandu. You can read more about our whole Tibetan journey here.
Mountaineering expedition
We arranged to join the Climbalaya mountaineering expedition at Cho Oyu Advance Base Camp. This would mean firstly spending a night at base camp to acclimatise. We’d then ascend to intermediate camp for another night. Once acclimatised, we’d start the trek to Advance Base Camp (ABC).
I first got a glimpse of Cho Oyu (the ‘turquoise goddess’) a few years ago from up high on Gokyo Ri. Seeing it close up and personal this time, was something to behold.
Reaching an altitude of some 5,800m/19,028ft at ABC, this trek was definitely not for the faint hearted. It’s the highest altitude that we’ve trekked to date. Coupled with the weather, the landscape up high was very stark, consisting of rocky and snowy terrain.
Cho Oyu Base Camp – 4,900m/16,076ft
Base camp was very different from what we’ve previously experienced. Firstly, you drive there from Tingri along a well maintained sealed highway leading all the way to the Nepal border. You then finally reach a cleared area which forms the basis of a cement factory, used to maintain the road to the border and other roads in the surrounding area. “We’re here!” exclaims Mingma, our guide. Somewhat surreal for a base camp, but this is China after all!
Base camp was pretty quiet as most expeditions were already on the mountain. However, we weren’t totally alone as members of the Chinese Tibet Mountaineering Association were present.
Intermediate Camp – 5,427m/17,805ft
From base camp, you have two options. You can trek for around 3 hours to Intermediate Camp or take a 15 min drive up on a sealed road. Being well acclimatised, we took the faster option.
The Chinese have placed a manned military post at Intermediate Camp, with lots of cameras. Being close to the border, the Military tend to get very ‘anxious’ when anyone approaches. As if to emphasise the point, our cook boy was stopped right in his tracks. The military thought he was going to cross the border, head up and over the mountains with just the clothes he was wearing. However, common sense prevailed and he was allowed on his way up to Advance Base Camp (ABC). Another funny thing also happened. We, along with another group of Chinese had camped the night on the way up to ABC. The next morning, a high ranking officer was due to arrive. So we were hurried by a junior ranking officer to pack up and he ‘shooed’ us on our way so as not to offer up any evidence of us ever being there.
Advance Base Camp (ABC) – 5,800m/19,028ft
Gathering up the yaks along with our gear plus other essential supplies, we proceeded up to ABC taking a ‘short cut’ across a glacier. Prior to us arriving, the climbing party had taken some 35 yaks to load carry all their gear up to ABC. We only needed two!
Located at around 5,800m/19,028ft, ABC is located up high on a snowy ridge and is where mountaineers base themselves to launch an attempt on the summit of Cho Oyu, being the sixth highest mountain in the world at 8201m / 26906ft.
The team
After a few hours of a long hard slog in the sun, a couple of our team came running down meeting us with a very welcome cup of tea. We then ascended up a very steep long ridge which looked over the spectacular Nangpa La Glacier. Finally, arriving at our camp site we were reacquainted with our expedition team who we’d met a few days earlier in Kathmandu. This was truly an international team comprising nationalities from Mexico, France, Germany, Spain and Taiwan. The sherpa climbing team had a huge amount of experience behind them, with many summits of 8000m mountains. In particular, Nima had summited Everest 22 times!
Puja
A beautiful Puja ceremony was held for our expedition, performed by a local Lama. The ceremony is performed to ask for permission and safe passage to climb the mountain. Following this, climbers departed the following day, stopping in their tracks above Camp 1 (around 6,000m). Deep snow hindered their progress and acclimatisation rotations on the mountain. On top of that, we were informed that everyone had to exit Tibet by 1 October due to China’s 70th anniversary celebrations. This added considerable angst to the climbing party’s summit schedule. The professionalism of sherpas and climbers prevailed, combined with Climbalaya’s excellent logistics and planning. Successful summits were achieved, which included one climber who had planned to ski down from the summit!
Onwards and upwards!
Trevor
Insights
- Cho Oyu ABC is one of the highest camps on an 8,000m plus mountain. Your body doesn’t recover well at this altitude so allow for plenty of rest days.
- Time zones can be confusing as Tibet is on China time, 2 1/4 hours ahead of Nepal. The climbing expedition used Nepal time for meals and logistics.
- If you desire to see hundreds of yaks grazing in their natural habitat, this is the place to visit.
- With the late onset of the monsoon, now becoming the norm, snow conditions were pretty horrendous on all 8,000m plus mountains on both the Nepal and Tibet side.
- Read how to get to Tibet