How many people have taken a dinner suit all the way up to Everest Base Camp (EBC)? Located at 5,380m/17,600ft, it certainly was one of the highlights of our trip. “Why”, you may well ask? Celebrating 60 years (May, 29th) since the late Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay’s first ascent of Mt Everest. We dined in peak style (pun intended) at the 3,870m (12,700ft) Thyangboche Monastery site – the most important Buddhist spiritual site in the Nepal Himalayas.
Journey to Everest Base Camp
We landed in Lukla (2,860m/9,383ft) and began our trek up the Khumbu Valley to Everest Base Camp. With my partner and 11 other trekkers in tow, two of whom were Kiwis, added even more significance to the occasion.
It was the first time for all of us in Nepal. To say we were all wowed by the Sherpa people, culture and 6,000m PLUS mountain vistas, would be an understatement. Now I know that Mt Everest (8,848m/29,029ft) is possibly on everyone’s bucket list to both climb and see. For me though, the award has to go to Ama Dablam (6,812m/22,349ft). A very beautiful and stunning mountain in its own right.
We were a party of thirteen (coincidently, 13 happens to be my lucky number). With all the other trekking parties tagging along for the 60th celebrations, we ended up with around 45 people, plus other guests, invited media, porters and sherpas. Being late May, the monsoon was fast approaching. We were lucky to avoid the clouds closing and heavens opening up until our descent from Everest Base Camp back down the valley.
Altitude Sickness
Sadly, two people from another group who were observed ‘rushing’ towards Everest Base Camp developed severe symptoms of altitude mountain sickness (AMS) at Lobuche (4,940m/16,210ft). One was diagnosed with high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) and the other pulmonary edema. Devastatingly, the bad weather prevented them from being medevaced and they passed away during the night. For all hikers or trekkers out there, this is a poignant reminder to keep a watchful eye on your fellow trekkers, especially at altitude. Alert your leader of any signs of prolonged symptoms of sickness e.g. headaches, vomiting and dehydration.
Black Tie Dinner
On the way back down from visiting Everest Base Camp, and in preparation for the 60th Anniversary celebration, we camped overnight in the grounds beside the Thyangboche monastery. Heavy monsoon rain with mud sliding everywhere and an unfortunate case of a leaking tent all added to the occasion. Getting into a dinner suit and not turning into a mud monster was definitely a challenge, but with hiking boots to match we managed to make our way safely to the marquee for the celebrations (aside from dodging the odd grazing yak and did I mention monsoonal rain).
With guest speakers Greg Mortimer and Brigitte Muir, two accomplished Australian Everest summiteers in their own right, it was one spectacular and surreal night. Many a tale or two was spun. When Greg was asked, “How did you know when you got to the top of Everest?”, he remarked, “When there was no more up!”. Sounds like a plausible explanation.
Along with the chanting and dancing led by the porters and Sherpas, it was certainly an entertaining night. Now, I’m not normally into advocating drinking alcohol at altitude for obvious reasons, but on this very special occasion I could be forgiven in sharing with my fellow trekkers a glass of 15 YO Scottish Whiskey.
Everest Marathon
At the same time as the anniversary celebrations, the Tenzing Hillary Marathon was happening. Camping alongside the runners on the way up to Everest Base Camp, we cheered them running through Thyangboche on their way back down to Namche.
The Return Journey
After packing up the next morning and departing Thyangboche to head back down to Lukla, the next two days brought evading yaks carrying the Everest climbers’ gear and treacherous walks through yak dung, mud and the constant torrential rain. And then came the entrance back into Lukla where it all came to a screeching halt. With no planes or helicopters coming and going for three days (yes, you guessed it – that darn weather again!), we had to sit it out in the few cafes with free WiFi, eat cake, drink copious cups of coffee and learn a few new card games.
Now, that would usually have been fun just lazing around but, by this time, other trekkers and also now the Marathon runners and their support crews had all started to crowd out Lukla (some 1,000 people!). As this was the official end of the climbing and trekking season, at least for this part of Nepal, it all started to get very crowded and noisy. Some people were contemplating commandeering an old Russian helicopter that was sitting next to the airport tarmac and others planned trekking the 4-5 days out to Jiri and then driving back to Kathmandu.
Delays at Lukla
After a few more coffees, beers and obligatory chocolate cake, common sense prevailed and we waited out the time playing all the card games we could think of. On the third day of being stuck in Lukla, rumours spread like wildfire that there may be a good weather window with the odd flight able to land. Or a chance of hitching a ride on the several helicopters coming in with supplies.
Now, paying for a helicopter required a load of cash (the currency of choice in the mountains). So it was off to the local bank to get a cash advance. We finally took off back to Kathmandu where we had a well-earned shower – and celebratory beer.
Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS) – Prevention
- Follow the maxim of climb high, sleep low. Take it slowly on the way up out from Lukla all the way to Everest Base Camp – allow 1-2 days to acclimatise at higher elevations.
- Hydrate and drink lots of water.
- Loss of appetite is normal but try and eat something for energy, even soup.
- Headaches are normal going to altitude, so until your body adjusts take aspirin or paracetamol. If the headache persists after 12-24 hours or is getting worse and you start vomiting, please consult with your trek leader urgently as you may be developing symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). See our High Altitude Trekking Tips for more information.
- Taking Diamox or Acetazolamide. You may have read about taking this medication before ascending to altitude to assist in the prevention of AMS. I will leave this to medical opinion as I’m not a doctor, however generally it’s better not to take it until you are at least showing symptoms of AMS. I know that this may run contrary to the opinion of some. However taking it beforehand (I have heard of people taking it when they initially arrive in Kathmandu) means having very few options left if you do develop symptoms of AMS. If they get worse and you can’t descend, medical evacuation by helicopter is the only option.
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Onwards and upwards!
Trevor
Insights
- Enjoy the mountain views (mornings are better as the clouds normally roll in during the afternoon).
- Don’t forget to look behind you. Some of the best views are from looking back from where you’ve come from.
- 15kg (33lbs) – etch this one on your forehead. Even though weighing in at the airport can be a tad farcical at times, 15kg is the limit (kit bag plus backpack).
- Packing and what gear to take – see this blog post about Gear.
- Bank those calories – you never know when they will be called on.
- Be aware of any trekking company trying to sell you on the idea that you can trek from Lukla to Everest Base Camp in less than 7-9 days (unless you’re already acclimatised). It’s your life they’re playing with (there should always be at least 1-2 days set aside for a rest day or two at higher altitude to aid in acclimatisation. These are usually at Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,286ft) and Dingboche (4,410m/14,470ft) if you’re following the normal route to Everest Base Camp.
- Showering – there are limited places to shower so it’s not uncommon to go 5-10 days without one. Take lots of wet wipes and wear wool. You can wear it for days on end and doesn’t smell.
- Resilience is key when hiking or trekking in the mountains, especially at altitude.
- Hope for the best but plan for the worst.
- Yaks have right of way – stay on the high side when passing.
- Read our post on how to get to Kathmandu
- You might also like our other posts on trekking the Everest Circuit and visiting Everest North Base Camp in Tibet, China.
