Locals say the Makalu Barun valley in Nepal is the “Yosemite of Nepal”. Experiencing it first hand on our way up to Makalu Advance Base Camp, the valley certainly has that magical wow factor with it’s massive rock walls.
Due to its relative inaccessibility, the Makalu Barun region is little-known to tourists with few trekking groups visiting. This region was completely closed to the outside world until 1952 when Eric Shipton visited, crossing what became known as the Shipton La (4,220m/13,845ft).
Makalu Base Camp (Hillary Base Camp)
Trekking in from Num, you see towering valley walls, waterfalls and snow-capped mountains all above you. Finally, the magic of Makalu reveals itself – the world’s 5th highest mountain standing at 8,485m/27,838ft.
Encountering unseasonably deep snow higher up added to the challenging trek. Our guides did a great job of navigating the path and breaking trail. With a clear focus on each step, looking up occasionally for the views, we had a steely determination to get to our next camp.
Makalu Advance Base Camp
We wondered why no trekkers go beyond Hillary/Makalu Base Camp (4,800m/15,748ft). Now we know why! Firstly, unless you are planning to climb Makalu, there is no need to head up to Makalu Advance Base Camp. Secondly, you need to ascend around 1,000m through a large boulder field, some 7-10 hours. Even some of the climbers, after acclimatising on other mountains, decided to helicopter direct to Makalu Advance Base Camp and bypass the trek in from Num.
Climbing Expedition
This certainly was no ordinary trek! We were offered an opportunity to trek to Makalu Advance Base Camp (5,700m/18,701ft) with a climbing expedition run by Expedition Base. It was an honour to mix with climbers of many nationalities with most having climbed several of the 14 highest mountains above 8,000m.
Makalu Advance Base Camp is where climbers base themselves in their summit attempt of the mountain. Sharing logistics and participating in a Puja ceremony, it was a privilege being camped under this magical mountain for days. Looking up, you could clearly see the climbing route up to camps 1 (6,100m/20,013ft) and 2 (6,600m/21,653ft).
Food
Food is fuel high up on the mountain and it’s important to eat healthy nutritious food. With helicopters coming and going, the positive side was a fresh delivery of food, with restaurant-worthy meals offered up. Makalu Advance Base Camp was full of surprises, especially when fresh salmon, avocado and kiwifruit appears on your plate. And of course being an Aussie, Vegemite too!
Climbers
As one climber commented, “all mountaineers are interesting characters – some you will like, some you won’t – but they’re all interesting nevertheless!”. We certainly did come across a fascinating variety of individuals. They were fun to be around with and loved hearing their stories of feats and endurance, often against the odds. You can read about the climb to the summit from one of the climbers who we’d trekked in with, Tracee Metcalfe, here. (Update 2024: Tracee has since climbed all 14 x 8000m peaks, and is the first American female to do so)
Khumbu Valley
After camping at Makalu Advance Base Camp for several days, the plan was to then head up and over the passes, dropping down from Sherpani Col and then to Dingboche. Alas, due to very deep snow and weather conditions deteriorating, it was judged that the crossing would be too dangerous to attempt. Reverting to plan B, it was decided that two of us would helicopter directly to Dingboche and resume our trek up the valley to Chukhung and Chukhung Ri (5,500m/18,045ft). The other two in our trekking party took a helicopter over to Lobuche to climb Lobuche East (6,119m/20,075ft).
From Chukhung Ri, we had amazing views of Nuptse, Makalu, Baruntse, Island Peak and Ama Dablam.
Dingboche to Lukla
After regrouping back in Dingboche, all four of us resumed our trek out through the Khumbu down to Lukla. Rather than take the normal trekking circuit route back down to Lukla via Tengboche and Namche, we detoured via Phortse. While there, we checked out the beautiful new home for the Khumbu Climbing Centre which was in the final stages of construction. The KCC has been running since 2003 and it’s mission is to “increase the safety margin of Nepali climbers and high altitude workers by encouraging responsible climbing practices in a supportive and community-based program”. There’s a great documentary on the KCC on Vimeo.
On the decent down from Namche, we encountered very large groups of people – more than previous years. Often waiting in long queues to cross the many suspension bridges, our patience was dwindling by the hour. Keeping our minds focussed on that cold beer and celebrations to come at Lukla certainly helped! And then, no more crowds – just the empty coffee shops of Lukla, a short plane flight to Ramechapp followed by a 6 hour drive back to the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu.
In September, we are planning to tackle Cho Oyu and Shishapangma Base Camps. You can follow our project to trek to the base camps of the 14 highest mountains in the world – Project Base8000.
Onwards and upwards!
Trevor
Watch our video
Insights
- This trek is rated as hard. Prepare both physically and mentally for steep and uneven terrain, and tougher conditions if there is snow.
- Access is via flying to Tumlingtar, and then a 3-4 hour drive to Num to the trail head.
- Consider taking micro spikes – it was very hairy going up and coming down some of the snowy trails.
- There are few teahouses or lodges to stay in the Makalu region, and they’re quite basic. We stayed in tents in some locations. However once you get to the Khumbu region there are plenty of good quality options.
- If trekking from Pangboche to Namche Bazaar, the trail via Phortse is much quieter than the main trail. Make sure you check out the Khumbu Climbing Centre. Stay at the Namaste Lodge and the lovely hosts will greet you with a great smile!
- Read how to get to Kathmandu
- or listen to the Training for Trekking podcast we’re featured on where we discuss this trek
